Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Goa - First Reactions

Unlike most of India, Goa is a former Portuguese colony, which is evident mostly in the architecture in the region's cultural center, Panjim.
Of course, I wouldn't know anything about that, because I'm sticking to the beaches.
During Christmas Goa attracts the young and beautiful from Western Europe and Russia for a weeks' or even months' long R+R. Right now it is the shoulder season, being between the Christmas high season and the monsoon (dead) season, during which the beaches are instead packed with leathery skinned long term retirees. There are just a few backpackers such as myself.
Goa is a state composed of many interior towns and "beach cities". So, Anjuna, Baga, Calangut, Vagator, etc. would be equivalent to LA's Santa Monica, Venice Beach, Hermosa Beach, and Long Beach, except with shorter distances between and a minimum of development. Also like LA, each beach town here has its own character. Some towns are more for serenity, peace and quiet, and others are a raver's dream. I'm staying in Baga, which is somewhere in between these two extremes. To get around, I've rented a motor scooter after having earlier rented one in Pune on which to practice. (I rented my first scooter in Bali last year and loved it). I woudn't ride a motorcycle in any major city, but in the small places you can get away with it safely.
This reminds me to mention some important advice to any would-be travelers out there - get an international driver's permit (IDP) before you go! It's quick and easy to pick up at the local AAA, and you never know when it will come in handy along your journey. A lot of piece of mind comes from knowing you're driving legally, so you can focus on driving safely and not looking out for cops. I recommend laminating the IDP, as it's too easy for the thing to get wet and damaged around here (this is first hand experience).
Goa is not an expensive place to live in. The dollar/euro/pound go very far here, and the result of course is in the number and intensity of touts and vendors announcing their services or wares.
I haven't figured out where the downward price pressure comes from around here, except for the vast number of year-round Goa retirees and "lifers" who have to make fixed nest eggs
stretch as far as possible over a long period of time. Otherwise I think all kinds of prices throughout Goa could be justifiably at least double their current value if the consumers were strictly folks on holiday.
Speaking of the touts, it's disheartening to see kids selling items (jewelry, refreshments) on the beach during the day when you know they should be in school. Education is not a universal right/requirement in India. I'm told a rough cost for basic schooling is 40 rupees a month. This is about $1 US. The kids probably make ten times that in profit per day selling wares. It's hard to have to ignore them, but until I learn otherwise I think ignoring is the most appropriate response, just like with everyone else trying to get your attention with the oft repeated words, "Hallo!", "Baba! (friend)", and "'where from?". Regarding the last, as far as price negotiations are concerned, I'm from Russia. Anyways, no one seems to be able to pick out an American accent around here, probably because there aren't any Americans around in the first place. No shortage of British, continental Western European, and yes, Russians.
I'm targeting about one and a half weeks exploring Goa, a place I've wanted to visit since seeing the film "Bourne Supremacy" years ago. Remember the opening chase sequence? Took place here. Irrespective of where it was shot, they certainly got the look and feel of the place down.

2 comments:

Unknown said...

I wonder what it smells like in the places you visit. Manila, when I visited, smelled of heavy cooking oil, cocoanut, as I recall; unpleasant, as in sickening.

I wonder what kind of taste experiences you have, perhaps the different kinds of mixed spices.

I wonder what it sounds like in this place or that.

When you went to the beach, what was the salt water like? Clean? Clear? Warm?

I wonder whether any of the people you meet, local or international, are particularly interesting, in addition to the autorickshaw drivers.

I wonder whether you've made the acquaintance of any of the gods of India, perhaps one you find reassuring, or less than.

There's lots of things to wonder about when confronting India. I wonder what you're wondering about India.

RadioCaroline said...

Baba usually means father....Dada means older brother.